More than just aesthetically-pleasing ornaments, jewelry has long been worn as a talisman, protecting its wearer from the likes of the evil eye and other ills, while also providing certain benefits. In Uzbekistan, khakik, or carnelian, is said to bring health and happiness, while turquoise traditionally brought luck to warriors going into battle, and the pearl is known for its curative capabilities.

Unlike their Western counterparts, Central Asian jewelers tend to polish gems rather than cutting them, creating smooth, round shapes. Silver, which is associated with the moon, has always been the preferred metal in Uzbekistan, where smiths are called kumush-usto, or “silver master.” Like many traditional Uzbek crafts, jewelry-making suffered a decline during the Soviet days of cheap Russian imports, but today there is a revival underway, spearheaded by the zargars, or jewelers, that never stopped practicing their art, even when times got tough.