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  Our favorite place to get curry laksa is Nancy’s Nyonya Laksa on Jalan Temenggong. Nancy wakes up at 5:00 AM to prepare the laksa broth, which requires some 20 coconuts. Her recipe, which was handed down form her god-sister, includes little clams, or karanga, as well as dried chili, shrimp, and a special leaf called Dhawan Kassom. She sells about 100 bowls every morning.

Photography by David Hagerman