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  Another iconic Oaxacan dish is the tlayuda. Thin, crunchy tortillas as big as your plate are smeared with asiento (unrefined pork lard) and refried beans, then topped with your choice of meat, quesillo fresco (Oaxaca’s famous cheese), lettuce, avocado and salsa for something that resembles a Mexican pizza. We ate ours at Tlayduas Libres, a late-night institution in Oaxaca that’s been there for 40 years.

Photography by Marcela Taboada